Americans love meat. Meat is not so great for the environment. But perhaps there is a middle ground: As meat consumption decreases, we’re seeing Americans buying the more expensive, humanely raised stuff.
Americans love meat. But even meat lovers will agree that the production of beef tenderloin and lamb chops takes its toll on the planet. Enter the new breed of meat producer, one that actually applauds eating less while still encouraging Americans to eat well.
It’s not bad advice, either. The links between the production of red meat and stress to the environment are well documented. It’s a resource-intensive process with a production cycle requiring a tremendous amount of energy. According to an oft-quoted analysis published in the Journal of Environmental Science and Technology, “Shifting less than one day per week’s worth of calories from red meat and dairy products to chicken, fish, eggs, or a vegetable-based diet achieves more GHG reduction than buying all locally sourced food.”
As recently as 2005, Americans were breaking records for per-capita consumption of red meat. While we’ve reduced intake a bit since then (less than 5%), we continue to eat more beef, pork, lamb, and veal than any other country on the planet. As the founder of Pavone, an integrated ad agency specializing in food and beverage marketing, I’m well aware that a meaty diet (including my own) is still solidly entrenched as a part of the American ideal and remains a powerful symbol of prosperity, indulgence, and general well-being. That’s one reason it’s so hard to reduce consumption.
Despite an onslaught of efforts to persuade Americans to eat less meat, the strategists here at Pavone report a seemingly counterintuitive explosion in premium red meat offerings. It appears that well-heeled red meat fans are willing to eat less as long as they can reward themselves by trading up in quality and taste.
We also see evidence of the industry working to change the meat-producing dynamic. The inclusion of heritage breeds of meat on menus, at farmers’ markets and in upscale retailers are clear indicators that the desire for heritage breeds is growing. While we don’t believe the link between the proliferation of heritage livestock breeds and a healthier planet is iron clad (at least not yet), the adoption of heritage meats, and their elevated price tags, by chefs and consumers is an encouraging sign.